Quick trip to LA last weekend found us downtown and in need of breakfast. The Nickel Diner came through with some of the finest doughnuts I’ve tasted in, well, ever. The Samoa nods to its Girl Scout progenitor, and does a good job recreating the depth of texture that makes the cookie so nice. And the bacon maple doughnut with candied apple-smoked bacon — ridiculously good. All of the house-made pastries are the work of Sharlena Fong, whose credentials include time at Per Se.

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